Last update 25 June 1996
	21 May 1996	Palas del Rey, 5 p.m.: After three days I feel like writing again today. Which means I have to go back to Saturday the 18th. Looking outside that morning it wasn't very appealing, a strong wind and rain and that on an altitude of 1300 m. Well, I am a strong boy, so on the road. Soon the wind and rain turned into a snowstorm. When the path was alongside the road it was slush and mud, so what can I say, it was a very bad day, not to be remembered. The only bright spot was in Alto de Poio, where they had a nice fire going in the café, so every poor stumbling walker inside for coffee and warming up next to the fireplace. The last stretch to Triacastela it was dry again and nice enough walking in the landscape past hamlets etc. Here I met Bill again, looking for a bar, because the refugio was still closed. We had some wine and I asked for some ice to put on my leg. It seems to help, so that is good, but my mood was far below zero. Don't know if it will get worse and I am rather unsure about my choice of going on.
		The next day my leg wasn't too bad, but still swollen, not a nice idea, but to know more I had to start walking. Very easy going, a little rain sometimes, but not too bad, till the 17th century Cloister from Samos. There I made a real nice picture, I think, of two owls, just sitting in the outer wall of the cloister next to the street. After Samos I choose a path, marked with a hiker, but without a star. Someone told me it was very beautiful and meandering. So I was walking and walking, looked at my compass, going north. Walked some more, going northeast, my hair stood on end ...and yes, now I saw it was just a local path, marked as the camino. Only one thing to do, turn around in the pouring rain without a map finding my way on my compass. That went alright, but after some 8 km detour through woods and grassland, and another 8 km to Sarria my frame of mind was below zero again, and so was my body. In Sarria I took a room in Hostal Roma, I was soaking wet. Had to repair the window in my room first, the strong wind blew it open all the time, then I went downstairs for some brandy to warm my bones a little. Took a hot bath and slept for a few hours. When I went downstairs again later the café was crowded and the restaurant closed. I asked for some wine and a place to eat, and finally it dawned on me that this was not a normal crowd, but a big family gathering. They didn't let me go before they had offered the pelegrino a real nice Spanish cognac.
		I slept like a rose, deep under the covers and like every morning when I wake up, I didn't know where I was. You get used to that too. Ok, it was the 20th and on my way to Puertomarin. Again a magnificent walk through the Galician countryside, some rain but not too much, what a relief. My leg hurt and got swollen in the course of the day. The refugio here filled up slowly, very crowded. So today the trip to Palas del Rey, following country roads and footpaths, a real joy. I am a good boy now and stick to 20 to 25 km a day. A very good refugio, had a nice shower and a fantastic meal in restaurante Casa Curro, I can recommend that, so what more do you wish?
	22 May 1996	Arzua: The next morning towards Arzua, again a beautiful stretch, and soon it looks like my leg is going to get better, so my mood is improving too. Easy going in a nice pace. After about 15 km I see Kees in front of me. He is part of a Dutch twosome (Kees and Paul) and a very cheerful fellow. It turns out his foot is bothering him and he lost Paul, who walked on, when he was changing his cloths. So we walked together the last 13 km, had a lot of laughs, gossiped about the others on the Camino. We went to two bars to eat and drink, really had a good time. In Arzua the refugio turns out to be some kind of a bunk bed storage place, with some sloppy sanitary facilities. Did some shopping and looked for a restaurant to eat later on.
	23 May 1996	Santiago de Compostela: This morning I walked alone again, the last stretch to Santiago. My leg looks good, feels good and isn't swollen anymore, so I am glad. I started out very early and taking it easy walking I should be able to make it. But some 10 km before Santiago my other leg starts hurting, it is not swollen, so I go on in an easy pace. I am lucky, in a suburb of the town my camping is already indicated, so I can walk right to it. Put up my tent, bought some food and called home. Looking forward to a night in my little tent and .... WOW, I made it !!!!!
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