Yesterday an easy start, but all went well. I could feel my foot shrinking in my shoe, my toes could lie next to each other again (they like that), my backpack felt light, because everything was dry. A strong head wind, walking west to Bessay-sur-Allier,
with a splendid roman church from the 12th century, exactly what I like, heavy and compact. Through the valley of the river Allier to the south, very flat country, with this strong wind all the time and the threat of rain. I drank quite a lot of water, am I glad I'm a little boy!Over the bridge (nice view of the Allier)
and along the N9, the old road I used to drive 25 years ago to Spain. They are still using it as a racetrack, but funny enough, it is good walking on the verge of the road. And every few kilometers a parking lot with benches and a functioning water pump. And a lot of café's, what more can you wish!
The tourist office in St. Pourcain-sur-Sioule was closed, (which means no stamp for my pilgrims pass), and so was the camping along the Sioule. So I had to leave town again and made my camp along the road. It was OK, except for the noise and the lights of the passing cars. Raining all night, in the morning a heavy sky and drizzle. Slowly packed my wet things, asked for water at the first house I came upon (I am doing that from the start).
Lunch here in Chantelle, baguette, coffee and wine, and on to Ebreuil, a very old little town. The camping on the Sioule 
is closed, but I can get on it, there is drinking-water and limited washing facilities. At night a clear sky, Venus above a thin sickle-moon, seems like you just have to reach out to pick them off the sky. In the tent everything is wet, sleeping bag is damp, but warm.The next morning shows a clear blue sky, spring finally bursts upon us, like it was let out of it's cage, it is getting warmer every minute. A nice lunch in St. Pardoux, as a cheese-lover I am having the time of my life here. Through the fields to Blot-l'Église, going up a lot, a good exercise for later, sweating, sweating, but without grumbling, the weather is beautiful. Filled my water bottles in St. Angel and found a perfect camping site at a crossing near some woods.
Sitting before my tent, quietly enjoying the sounds around me, then, my goodness, I am scared stiff, there it stands, looking at me: a huge deer with those big antlers, and off it goes with a lot of noise.No music in the tent tonight, trying to sleep, not much but enough, so many sounds I had forgotten....
In Manzat, I called Jol, had coffee and shopped for diner. Still warm, must be over 20°C. After about 17 km I am now in Chapdes-Beaufort. Following the GR 4, later on it's called the GR 41. Made an early stop 3 km above Pontgibaud, tired but content, the last path was very muddy with a lot of rocks, heavy on my ankles.
From this café I can see the Puy de Dôme to my left and right in front the snow-covered massive of the Puy de Sancy. From Pontgibaud I went to St.Pierre-le-Chastel, I think also a small Puy, down and then up again to 762 m. Took the wrong path, no sweat, across some grassland in the right direction. Feeling great today, so shouldn't exaggerate!
Every time I am thinking about telling you a little story about the dogs in the French countryside, but it has to be some other time, it is too busy here, too many people making an awful lot of noise. On my way to Orcival.
I am staying in a house in Aurières, about 5 km east of Orcival, where I met my hostess. Both campings there were closed, and she just started some Bed&Breakfast in her house, mostly for bikers.
Just a small problem, she wanted to do some skiing at the Lac de Guéry, but I could come with her and take a walk with her dog. Beautiful up there, the lake was still frozen.
Chantal is a very spontaneous woman, 42, speaks English and Spanish and has seen a lot of the world. So we had a very pleasant evening. I slept on the loft, 12 x 10 m, all for myself.
Every now and then the dog, Snoopy, came up to say hello. The next morning she took a picture of me and Snoopy, and after a good breakfast, I was on the road again.
On the way to Le-Mont-Dore it started to rain and I had to wear my rain-cloak for 5 hours, the first time that long at a stretch, well, it's all in the game. Now I am in La Bourboule, to the post office and then up to find a site for the night.
It is difficult to find a camping site here, when it is flat, most of the time there is too much snow. Finally found one, at a crossing again, just a little bit of snow to remove, but I am completely wet (also from walking). Hope my jack and cloak will dry a little in my tent.Slept well, only the rain made an awful lot of noise on the tent.
In the morning a clouded sky, I am at 1250 m, snow on the ground, very cold and a thick fog, but, I don't know why, I think it's rather funny, all this cold wet stuff. Just hope it doesn't stay this way for days. More next time.
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