Herman's Way, Maurs.....

	Last update 30 April 1996

	2 April 1996 A pilgrim's feet after 3 weeks	Maurs, hotel room. Yes, after 5 nights in my little tent, I needed that again. I want to freshen up, and above all have a good meal and rest. Yesterday in the afternoon the weather improved and I felt a lot better. I decided where I wanted to stop, and more important, that I would take a half-day rest the day after. After Parlan I went south, then east to Rouziers, crossing the RN 122, and on to St. Julian-de-Toursac. Got some water, everything closed again, so made my camp alongside this road. After a rainy night, a clear but cold and windy day. On my way to Maurs, I feel good, I am back on the track. Maurs has a very small center with a beautiful church. I am looking forward to a nice dinner, lentils with bacon and a thick brown sauce. Three weeks ago I would have pulled my nose up, now it's perfect, lots of calories. I saved some for tomorrow, because I am noosing too much weight, that has to stop. A small brandy for digestion, you see, I am not short of anything. A little more about walking in France, if you are a hiker, a pilgrim or randonneur (a walker on yesterday's horizon), you need a lot of water and food, so it is important to pay attention. Sunday's in the larger towns most is closed, the same goes for the smaller villages on Monday. So these are difficult days for hikers. How will it be with Easter, well, I'll see about that when it gets there, planning one day ahead is more than enough.
	3 April 1996	For the first time in my life I am in a gîte d'étape, about 7 km from Figeac. It looks fine here, don't know what the price is, but the first other pilgrim (am I one, I wonder?) I met told me it is about ff 25, which is very cheap. If this is true, I'll go there again tomorrow in Cajarc. Today for the first time, I got the road completely wrong. Leaving Maurs, I had to pay attention, but after that I was dreaming and went happy-go-lucky, didn't pay attention to where I was going, so I walked about 7 km too much, wasn't too happy about that! It was cold today, ice in the ditches and a strong wind, so actually fine weather to walk. I reached the GR 65 (E3) at St. Jean Mirabel, church closed, water tap shut off (what's new?), so on to the GR, mostly it follows nice footpaths, sometimes very narrow, good for walking. In Figeac I asked for a gîte at the tourist office, had to go 7 km further, heavy but fun. The other pilgrim here is a 22 year old Algerian Frenchman called Michel, from Le Puy, which was of course his starting point. Figeac seems to be a busy town.
	4 April 1996	I didn't sleep too well in the gîte, it was too warm and I am not used to sharing a room. It cost ff 50 instead of ff 25, rather expensive for a gîte. Breakfast were a few pieces of cheese, didn't have anything else. To Faycelles, of course everything closed, then to Béduer, where I finally found a little bar with a small shop. I had something to eat and bought some more food, and also managed to find a new detailed map. About 5 km before Cajarc I saw Michel again, walked together the last kilometers. I think he likes that, I am less enthusiastic. I rather walk alone, he walks as fast on nice stretches as when the scenery is less interesting, what a pity. Well, I am following my own course anyway, and sometimes he looks at me as if asking, what am I doing wrong? Now in Cajarc, looked for a camping, closed, so to a gîte again, ff 35 this time. It is in the middle of the village, easy to make a phone call home. Tomorrow to Bach, I remember that place from a book I read, but more so because of the name.
	5 April 1996	Slept well for at least 4 hours, probably because of the wine, Michel and I both bought a bottle. I celebrated 3 weeks of walking. Yesterday evening a woman arrived also, we were lucky to have 3 separate rooms, one for each of us. Funny lady, I know people who chatter a lot and are wisecracks, but she beats everything. Didn't stop talking for 2 seconds, saw the band-aid on my foot, so my shoes were wrong (answer, not my shoes, but my feet), should use different tape, etc. etc. Turned out she was leading groups and originally a nurse, which explained a lot! Now I am having lunch in Limogne-en-Quercy, some 10 km before Bach. I don't know yet, if I'll stop there, but tomorrow I want to reach Cahors and stay there Easter Sunday because of the closed shops and cafés. There should be a camping close to the center on the river Lot, good for a day of rest and washing. My jacket needs washing badly, my goodness, does it stink!
	7 April 1996	Friday I stopped 5 km after Bach, having asked for water in Escamps. Found a nice camping site in a grove, slept well. Sometimes I feel like I hear everything around me and sleep at the same time, I wonder if that is possible, I think it is. But what about the quality of both? It had been a 'heavy backpack'-day, so I needed my sleep. Saterday-morning, 7.30 a.m. and I was on the road already. The tent and stuff were almost dry, very pleasant. On the way to Cahors, everything was closed again, speeded things up, so at 13.20 p.m. I reach the camping (St. Georges) in Cahors. It is on the left side of the bridge, really close to the center. It is small and noisy, but the situation makes up for that. Put up the tent, looked for someone to register, nobody around, did some shopping and had a déja-vue feeling; have we been here before? Filling up my gasoline-burner drew spectators as usual. Went sightseeing in town, the cathedral with two large domes with frescoes is really magnificent. It is a shame that also in France many statues have been destroyed. Had a good meal, I don't think I am losing weight anymore, but I feel hungry all the time. Easter Sunday I slept late, and went for a long walk, looked at the Pont Valentré, a beautiful old bridge with 3 towers over the river Lot. I'll cross it again tomorrow, and then the path goes up very steep, partly with steps. I am calculating when I'll be in Condom (his first mail address) and, yes it looks like the weekend. So I'll have to slow down a bit, don't feel like going faster. Bad day for washing by the way, not enough sun.
	8 April 1996	At a small chapel past Lascabanes, the door was open, so looked inside. A pile of thick notebooks, full with commentaries from mostly pilgrims. Rather tough day today, mainly because of the sudden slope going out of Cahors, bloody steep that was! Reaching the first platform (2 more to go), a woman nudge her partner and made remarks about me and my backpack, climbing up like that. I really had to keep my wits about me, especially when scrambling up using the climbing irons. I had worried a bit about that, concerning my balance. But all went well, good feeling for the future. A beautiful walk from there on, through farm fields, thickets and heather. Only those pebble paths are very tiring to walk on. Just before Lascabanes I asked an old lady for water. I had to come with her to a real old draw-well, with a bucket going way down and coming up again (she wouldn't let me help), filled with crystal clear water. Filled my flask, drank, filled it again, submerged my arms, what a treat! Back on the road I met Michel again, he also stayed over in Cahors, with the monks, he had seen my tent. We'll probably meet again.
	9 April 1996	Found a nice spot yesterday to camp, this morning I tried to slow down, didn't succeed to well. So here I am in Montcuq, nice little town. Nice walk till here, over an open plateau. I am hungry, so talk to you later.
		Back Continue Why not let him know you are following him on his way? Back to the menu.