clearpixLast update 30 April 1996
Herman's Way
10 April 1996 Sitting against a weeping willow, I am trying to remember what happened. Yesterday in Montcuq I sent my last letter, from there I went to Lauzerte, Lauzerte a nice stretch and well marked. That little town had charm, but the people knew it too well.
Who do I see, Michel. I offer him a cup of coffee, after which he leaves. I have lunch, then leave town, and there he is again, waiting at the shop he recommended to me. OK, so we walk together. I had planned another 6 or 7 km, but we were using his map, and the description was completely different from the GR on my map. We had to go through a field, through a dry ditch, past a mad dog..., it didn't make sense. I definitely know now I rather be on my own. Well, finally we stopped, I put up my tent and he slept beside it (doesn't have a tent).
The next morning I told him nicely, I was going to follow my own map, and he could use his book. Result: we arrived together in Moissac. He went to the monks, I to a camping. Said, we'll meet again in Condom, but I'm afraid it will be sooner and then I'll have to be firm and tell him I don't want this.
They are messing about with the markings of the GR for the last 20 km before Moissac. Tympanum Sometimes you see marks on the trees that have been partly erased. But with the right pilgrims mentality, you get there someway.
Visited the famous Église St. Pierre, which has indeed a beautiful tympanum, and also the cloister is magnificent.
St. Pierre Now I am enjoying my aloneness sitting under this willow. Tomorrow I will trade the river Tarn for the Garonne on my way to Auvillar.
Cloister at Moissac
11 April 1996
Maria statue
Auvillar, indeed nicely situated. For the rest everything deserted, I hope there is something open in this little museum. I don't know what to think of it, a rundown place is nothing, but a too perfect restauration is no good either. You can see it was done about 10 years ago.
Auvillar On the way here I followed the alternative route: alongside the canal and the Tarn, then along the railway track. The loco man blew his horn three times very loudly, so as fast as I could I took the other track.
Looking for a shop now to buy food, and I need a new map, I am missing part of the road.
Auvillar Now I am writing at an old millstone about 2,5 km past Tlamarens. I didn't find any shop open, so I just ate some cookies from my reserves. I am on a camping-farm, I am the only guest and they opened up specially for me. The farmer's wife has also been to Compostela, by car that is. They are very friendly.
Tomorrow I plan to start real early, and see how far I can get in one day, with at least 2 stops of an hour or so. But all goes well so far, each day I feel my back at a certain moment, but the next morning I am fine again. So my back-muscles need more strengthening. Today I met the second pilgrim on the road, an Englishman of about sixty. He is following his own route with the same map I have.
12 April 1996 Auvillar Lectoure, just a few words before I go to the post office to mail this letter and the roll of pictures. I got up very early indeed, but didn't sleep very well, so my morning wasn't too bright. I choose to follow the road, which is the original route and a little shorter than the alternative along sand paths. The scenery is about the same.

Back Cockle Continue


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