Geaune: Yesterday a beautiful trip. I made a picture of a tree hut, there were several, one even nicer than the other. When you passed them, you could hear the ladder squeak. years ago I would have climbed up, but the wood didn't look too solid and it was pretty high up.The glider pilot had told me that Tuesday the weather would change, Wednesday (= today) would be really bad, but the day after it would be fine again. Well, he was right about today, it started raining yesterday evening and today I had hailstorms and the lashing wind almost blew me (100 kg all in all) of the road.
Aire-sur-l'Ardour is a pretty town, with a camping next to the river and the arena, and close to the center. It was closed however, although the woman in Nogaro phoned for me and told me it was open. I could put up my tent though and got some water from a public toilet nearby. In the morning someone opened up the washing room, so I could shower anyway. On my way for a short stage, the day before had been quite tough. Taking the N124 it would have been 21 kilo, but by the GR it was more than 30 km.
I almost forgot, how is it possible: yesterday I came out of the woods, and what did I see? Couldn't believe my eyes, but yes, there they were, the Pyrenees !!! A bit hazy, but I couldn't resist taking a picture, although you can hardly see them on it.Gonna make a good meal tonight, and tomorrow to Pimbo. My 1:100.000 map lacks the route between Aire and Pimbo, so I am taking the road. This is my last map in France, in St.-Jean-Pied-de-Port I can send it home along with my dictionary.
The walk to Pimbo was easy, it is a small town with a huge old church and two taps. A little lower, 50 m steep down, I made my first stop on a beautiful camping site. The sky is blue now with cumuli, so whenever I am on a high spot without trees, I can see the Pyrenees clearly, I recognize different tops, like the Pic du Midi d'Ossau.
From there I turned right to a farmhouse and then also for the first time I came upon a piece of the GR that had been turned into a hindrance track. At the farmhouse the path had been barred with barbed wire and a big dog at 1 m peering at my calves. I should have turned around there and then. Crawled with difficulty under the wire, my backpack is always in the way with such manoeuvres. Then a bumpy clay path with puddles, thorn bushes, trees fallen over it, even some sort of brambles and then the end of the path. Two poles forming a triangle with the red-white sign inviting me to crawl underneath them, backpack off, through, one more sign and then no more path, no more signs. So I made my own 'path' following my compass, more barbed wire et cetera. Finally I found signs again, but the
path was badly marked. After 5 km I found a spot to make my camp alongside a small brook. It was a sultry night with a lot of dew, so like yesterday everything was wet again.
Started this morning on a piece of sausage, in the direction of Pomp, but only in Artez-de-Béarn I found a place to eat.
The place stretches over several km and because of the altitude has a magnificent view of the Pyrenees. For the first time I saw a viper, dark with << markings and a checkered head, I think it was a Pyrenees viper. It came out of a hole in the verge of the road, there are many mice here. From now on I'll be more careful, and check before I sit down.Finally after crossing the Gave de Pau I ended up in Maslacq, like a ghost city, but there was a very nice gîte, next to a cultural center. I got a whole bunch of keys, for several entrances, the toilet, the showers, gas cylinders (had to change them, they were finished), kitchen downstairs, bedroom upstairs.
This morning started from Maslacq to Navarrenx, where I had lunch. Nice little town, quite busy after that sleepy town of Maslacq yesterday. Too early to stop, so I thought of going to Maulon-Licharre, where I could probably find a camping. But then the hostess asked me where I was going, made some phone calls and told me I better go to Aroue, where I could stay in a gîte. the distance would be the same. So that's why I am here, after a total of 38 km today.
Tomorrow I'll leave the GR to go to St. Palais to buy some fruit, a small detour. This is an advise from a Swiss guy,
who started today in Navarrenx, for his yearly two weeks of walking. I had seen him behind me earlier today, but he didn't make signs to contact me. He rather walks alone too, nice guy, looks like an English officer, only the baton under his arm is missing.The gîte here is pretty bad, ff 40 for a sort of modified garage, not to recommend.
I shot my last picture of some women feeding a little goat asked them for water too.Tomorrow I'll take a gîte again in Ostabat-Asme, another long stretch like today's would be too much.
Yesterday in the beginning of the afternoon I arrived here after a nice walk. Partly took the road because my map didn't match, the route was changed again. Took the first gîte at the end of the Rue de Citadel, it is very small, 3 bunk-beds, down a dark staircase the toilet and shower, no kitchen or sitting room.Together with the Swiss I went to see Mme Debril.
She is thé person to see when it comes to the Chemin de St.Jacques, she puffs a lot in French, that she is so busy with all those pilgrims, writes down everything you say (god knows for what purpose) and finally gave us the stamp in our pilgrims passports.
You need that for the refugios in Spain, sometimes they ask to see your pass. She is a nice woman and it is fun to visit, but she makes herself look so very important!Had my shoes fixed here and picked up another surprise package from Jol at the post office.
So this is my last stop in France, tomorrow I'll cross the Spanish border and go on following the Camino Frances.
Before I started this journey I didn't have clear expectations, so as not to get disappointed. Compared to others I have had better weather, a bit disappointing was that most campings were still closed. I have no problem with 'being away from home' and the walking goes better all the time. So far, so good.....
ContinueWhy not let him know you are following him on his way?