Had a beautiful walk today, it was cold, no sun, perfect weather to cross the Pyrenees. The light in the mountains, the dew that slowly lifted (started at 8 a.m.), every now and then a sunray to enhance it, the predatory birds in the sky and no one to cross my path, not even on the small roads. Magnificent! And going up all the time, from 163 m in St. Jean-Pied-de-Port till 1450 m with a few descents over a total of 26 km. The last 5 km going down to Roncesvalles. Just strolling along, eating the goodies from Jol's package and immensely enjoying the mountains, the light, the birds, many vultures here, and at 3 p.m. I arrived in the cloister.
First they sent me to the restaurant next door to eat, then to the refugio. The American is there, also two Frenchmen. And as only female a Frenchwoman arrived. But it is so cold here, even the shower went cold (of course I just shampooed my hair) and everybody is shivering. If you just started, it is not the best of experiences, but it can only improve, I hope. I intend to stay in refugios as much as possible here in Spain, mainly to feel the atmosphere. But tonight I'll hit the sack early, trying to dream up warm sunshine and that I'll only meet nice Spaniards. Up until now they haven't given me a chance to try and understand them, they are assuming I won't. I'll have to study a little each day, I'll start tomorrow....
So easy going this morning, a short stop for breakfast in Burguete, later a longer one. Had some nice rolls with cheese and ham, they warm them on the oven. Started out with rain, by the way, already forgot about that, so the same atmosphere as yesterday. After 10 km the sky cleared and I was whistling, good to be on my own again.
Arrived in this refugio after the Frenchwoman and before the American (the markings were bad, much better in the US). I find the signs much clearer here than in France, also more frequent. This refugio is excellent. Tomorrow I want to leave early, because of Pamplona. I want to take my time there to buy some food and a new map, and then on to Cizur Menor, there should be a nice refugio where I'll probably meet my fellow travellers again. Had a nice shower, washed some cloths, hoping they will dry.
Passed through a village today, really weird. When I arrived, a shepherd was leaving with his sheep, accompanied by his wife. They looked very depressed, both of them. It didn't look like he would be away too long, because the sheep needed shearing. I followed the woman back to the village, she with bent head, hanging shoulders, shuffling in big boots. All the people in the village emanated the same mood, many were in the street, not talking to each other, everybody on his own. Very weird, it seemed like death had passed through.
After having called Jol from a bar, I am sitting outside now writing. It is not very warm, but with my jacket on it is nice enough. Only the wind is playing with my paper, a bit hard to write.This morning to Pamplona, how tiring a town like that can be, especially with a heavy backpack. The tourist office closed, so I couldn't leave it there. How the post offices work here, I still have to find out: often closed and hard to find.
But it was nice that I remembered the town so well. Not much more to tell about today, just a stage with a town, that sucks energy out of you. The isolated mountain village in Basque country yesterday stayed a long time in my mind. It influences the way I look at these threatened villages, I try to understand what is happening there, with some sadness, almost feelings of bereavement. Funny, I wonder if my imagination took a run for it, or if I was right. No answer to that.
Tonight the Frenchwoman, Pauline is going to cook for us. She is 62, you can hardly keep up with her, and she has done this route twice already, a bit of an addiction. We are now 7 in this refugio, in a nice building in Roman style with arcades, just before you enter the town.
Yesterday two English cyclists arrived, about 50, behaving like football supporters. I made some remarks about that, don't think they appreciated it too much.
Early start again this morning, for a stage of 18 km with a detour to Eunate, with some big bumps with tops up to 1000 m. I was in a teasing mood. Caught up with the two French, took a spurt to leave them behind, up a very steep slope with some blisters coming up on my right heel, I could still see them, so gasping and all I kept it up, until I lost them. And then, in front of me, the American and Pauline, so I didn't gain anything. Well, maybe some wisdom, it is good to have fun, but the Camino is very busy, it doesn't pay to over exert yourself and take the risk of a injury by not following your own pace.
Puente la Reina really is as charming as I expected, the bridge is like a piece of music in stone, the four churches and 2 or 3 narrow streets are one unity. I am beginning to get the feel of Spain, in a positive way. Still have to find out about the practical things though.
My two English friends just came in, another night with snoring... Yes, that is the big difference with France, it is really busy here. But the views in the morning are unforgettable, really magnificent.
At the end everybody held hands with their neighbors, me included, I could feel they appreciated that. Really a very nice and spiritual experience after so many years.Today I arrived in Estella after having gone wrong earlier. Just before Estella I kept following the arrows without paying attention to the marked detour.
So there I was at the river Ega, looking at a broken bridge, no way to get to the other side. If I understood the man I passed well, the bridge just collapsed, although it hang on 4 cm thick cables, while they were making a canal. Must have been quite a sight!There is no refugio here this year, so someone pointed me to this fonda. I'll have dinner in town, on my own for a change, and then to bed.
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